12/30/03

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Todd's Sugar Glide FAQ

 

1. This FAQ

2. What is a Sugar Glider?

2.1. General Physical Appearance

2.1.1. What does a male Sugar Glider look like?

2.1.2. What does a female Sugar Glider look like?

2.2. Differences between captive and domestic Sugar Gliders

2.3. What noises do they make?

3. Housing

3.1. Cage Size

3.2. Cage material

3.3. Nest box and Bedding Material

3.4. Bottom Litter and Safe Branches

3.5. Food dishes and accessories

4. What kind of diet does a Sugar Glider require?

4.1. Basics

4.2. Supplements

4.3 Dairy products and Chocolate

5. Health

6. Bonding

7. Traveling with your pet

8. Breeding

9. Breeders

10. Legalities

1. This FAQ

The information contained in this FAQ is based on the experiences of the ISGA members. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of the information in this FAQ, the ISGA, it's members, and myself do not claim any expertise on Sugar Gliders. For any health problems concerning your Sugar Glider, consult a qualified veterinarian.

2. What is a Sugar Glider?

2.1. General physical appearance

The genus Petaurus Breviceps, also known as the Sugar or Honey Glider, is native to New Guinea and Australia. Their size and appearance is like that of a flying squirrel but they are more correctly described as flying possums. They are marsupials, meaning the female has a pouch where her babies grow after birth. They are also nocturnal and will be most active late at night.

Their fur is soft and silky to the touch. They are generally grey in color with a black stripe running from the nose to the base of the tail. The tail is bushy and also grey except the last 1-2 inches which is black. Their underside is white or cream colored. Along the sides of the body is the gliding membrane, called the Patagium. It stretches from the front to the rear legs and allows the Sugar Glider to "glide" through the air. Their tail is somewhat prehensile and they can use it to aid in steering during a glide and for carrying bedding material such as leaves into their nests. They have five digits on each foot, all having claws except for the inner opposable big toe of the hind feet.

The "HAIR COMB" is formed by the two semi-fused digits of the rear feet. These twin toes have small, thin claws that effectively "comb" through the Sugar Glider's fur. The grooming process involves scratching with their rear feet and then licking the claws clean of any dirt. They will repeat this action over various parts of their body for several minutes.

2.1.1. What does a male Sugar Glider look like?

The male Sugar Glider is usually a little larger than a female. The testicles appear as a furry sac about where you would think to find a navel. The male has what is called a bifurcated penis, meaning two shafts and is located on the bottom side near the base of the tail. It is usually retracted but may be exposed when they excrete body wastes or if they are excited or frightened. It will be most noticeable during the mating season when it can extend up to two inches in length. This is normal and will retract in a few days.

The male Sugar Glider has three scent glands. One is on top of his head and will appear as a BALD SPOT as he reaches maturity. The second gland is located on his chest and may cause an orange or rusty discoloring of the fur in that area. The third gland is located in the anal area. He will use these to "mark" his territory, mates, offspring and even his owner. He does this by rubbing his head or chest on what he feels is his.

2.1.2. What does a female Sugar Glider look like?

The female has the pouch, also called the marsupium. It can be seen as an obvious slit in the underbelly as soon as she emerges from the pouch herself. She also has a bifurcated vagina, which means split or in two divisions. Her fur color and markings are the same as the male except she lacks the bald spot on top of the head.

2.2. Differences between captive and domestic Sugar Gliders

The most obvious difference between a captive (wild-caught) glider and a domestic glider is their fur color. Wild gliders have brownish fur from living in the eucalypt forests. These trees contain large amounts of sap that sticks to the gliders' fur and attracts dirt. Their fur will gradually change to a grayish color in captivity. Other differences refer mainly to pet quality. It will take a much longer time to bond with a wild-caught glider and even then there is no guarantee. They usually don't make the type of close bond that a hand-raised baby will make. Also, you will never know the age of a wild-caught glider.

2.3. What noises do they make?

The Sugar Glider makes several very distinctive sounds but are most commonly known for their "crabbing or screeching sound". This sound is probably the first one you will hear and it may make you pull your hand back in surprise. The sound has been described as closely resembling an electric pencil sharpener. They may make this noise to fend of an attacker, or to express fear and annoyance. A pair of young Gliders will even stand up on their back feet, take a boxing stance and crab at each other. They will even dart at each other as if in mock battle. Once your Glider gets used to you, they hardly make the crabbing noise anymore unless they are really sleepy.

Sugar Gliders also BARK! They can bark much like the North American Squirrels do. It has also been described as sounding like a puppy barking "Yip!, Yip!" They seem to bark to get attention, either from their owner or from other Gliders. They usually bark in the early morning hours around 3 am. Some owners have noted that their males bark more during a full moon. Some feel that it can be a warning if anything is moving outside their cage. Most owners have found that leaving a light on near the cage or in an adjacent room usually keeps them quiet.

Sugar Gliders also express themselves with a quiet kind of chatter, as though talking to themselves. It may be noticed more often when they are in a bonding pouch or pocket. This has also been described as a chirping sound and seems to indicate contentment. They will also make a sound similar to a quiet sneeze or snuffing noise. This is generally used to express only mild annoyance at the attentions of another animal.

3. Housing

Sugar Gliders are normally kept in wire cages. They should be located in an area free from drafts and heating and air conditioning vents. The temperature of the room or area should be maintained between 70-90 deg. F.

3.1. Cage Size

The Sugar Glider cage should have more height than width. It should be at least 18"x18"x24". The width between the wires should not be any larger than 1"x 1/2". A medium size bird cage with a wire bottom and a pull-out tray works well and is easy to clean. Any doors on the cage should be secured with a j-clip or similar locking device.

3.2. Cage Material

Cages can be found at most pet stores or special ordered. Some people even hand-make their own cages. The material used can be stainless steel, brass, galvanized metal or coated with PVC or an all natural organic material (Powder Coating). It is important to inspect the cage carefully for any loose, broken or protruding wires. The Sugar Glider likes to climb and play and will even jump around if the cage is large enough.

3.3. Nest Box and Bedding Material

Sugar gliders need a nest box to sleep in during the daytime. A pine bird box approximately 6"x8"x6" will work or a plastic container with vent and drain holes will do. Some people use special made pouches that can be hung in the cage and taken out for traveling with the glider.

Suitable bedding material can be made of plain newspaper, paper towels, hay or non-toxic leaves. If using cloth avoid loose strings or frayed edges. Gliders may choke on string and have been known to become tangled in thread.

3.4. Bottom Litter and Safe Branches

Bottom litter should be somewhat absorbent but also easy to clean. It can be the same material used in the nest box or a commercial product sold in stores. Alfalfa pellets also work well. DO NOT use colored inks or cedar shavings. Some ink can be toxic and cedar shavings give off phenols that can irritate a gliders skin and respiratory tract.

Gliders also need branches for climbing and chewing. Regular bird cage perches can be used along with the following list of branches from the Grey Parrot (CAGTAG) list. Used here with permission from the author.

 

Safe Natural Wood Branches

Apple

Arbutus

Ash

Aspen

Beech

Birch

Cottonwood

Crabapple

Dogwood

Elm

Fir

Hawthorn

Larch

Madrone

Magnolia

Manzanita

Pine

Poplar

Sequoia (Redwood)

Willow

DO NOT use apricot, peach, plum, prune or nectarine. These belong to the Prunis species and can release cyanide when ingested.

Gillian Willis

Vancouver, BC

willis@dpic.bc.ca

3.5. Food dishes and accessories

Use one or two food dishes for dry items and one dish for moist items. A small-animal water bottle or bowl can be used for water.

Things that can be added to the cage for exercise and play are hamster wheels, parrot or bird-type toys, thick rope or ladders.

 

4. What kind of diet does a Sugar Glider require?

Sugar Gliders should receive 75% fruits/vegetables and 25% protein in their diet. Sugar Gliders can be finicky at times. Some days they will eat a certain food and then not touch it the next time it is offered. The best way to ensure a balanced diet is to provide a variety of foods.

Certain foods should be offered daily while others should be given occasionally. Sugar Gliders can gain weight if given too much of their favorite foods such as corn, peanuts and sunflower seeds. The extra weight certainly isn't good for them and is even more dangerous if you plan to breed Gliders. One breeder uses a weekly/monthly schedule to ensure variety and provide the right amount of supplements. Her plan is included here but not limited to the items listed.

4.1. Basics

These are some basic items you can feed your Sugar Glider. This list is not limited to these items so if your Glider doesn't like one item, try another item with similar nutritional value.

FOODS TO KEEP IN THE CAGE ALL THE TIME:

Sunflower seed, corn, cat food (dry, lite diet), a dog biscuit to chew on, salt/mineral spool and of course fresh water daily.

MONTHLY:

Monkey biscuit soaked in apple juice (1/2 per animal)

BI-WEEKLY:

Vitamin supplements such as Repcal (calcium) and Herptivite sprinkled on fruit and vegetables. (You can keep these items in salt shakers) Also give chicken or chicken flavor dog food with honey wheat germ sprinkled on top, Nekton Lori (5 parts water to 1 part Nekton), Modified Ledbeaters Mix (recipe below) or a variation of same, and boiled egg with the shell (1/8 per animal).

DAILY: (2-3 of the following each day)

Carrot/apple/raisin salad (grate apples and carrots), Fruit (fresh or frozen), Mixed veggies (frozen are very convenient), Fresh veggies (sweet potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, etc.), Applesauce (natural), Baby meat and vegetables (Beechnut- contains no onion powder), Pasta-cooked, Unsalted crackers, Whole wheat bread (toasted and cut into small pieces), Insects (mealworms, crickets, waxworms). DO NOT feed the pits or seeds of apricots, peaches, nectarines, plums, prunes, apple seeds or avocado pits. All of these are poisonous.

NOTE: Mealworms are easily raised at home with very little expense involved. You can fill a container with whole wheat flakes and a few slices of potato, carrot or apple and let the worms alone. They will turn into pupa and then beetles. The beetles lay their eggs and in a couple months there will be more mealworms. For more info visit these web sites:

How to Culture Mealworms http://www.ndsu.nodak.edu/instruct/devold/twrid/html/cmeal.htm

Rearing Mealworms http://www.ag.ohio-state.edu/~ohioline/hyg-fact/2000/2135.html

TREATS:

Honey/nut/seed sticks (hamster kind), 1/2 raw peanut, Honey Nut Cheerios

MODIFIED LEDBEATERS MIX: (Thanks to Ruth Grove)

1/2 cup Apple juice

1/2 cup Honey

1 egg- hard-boiled, shelled

1/2 cup High-protein baby cereal

2 tsp. Linatone (Canine vitamin supplement)

1/4 cup Wheat germ

1 jar baby food chicken or lamb (optional)

Dump everything into a blender and puree until lump free. Pour into an airtight plastic container and place in the freezer. It only freezes to about the consistency of ice cream so it can easily be scooped out.

4.2. Supplements

Supplements are sometimes used to ensure a balanced diet. They are not always necessary but some gliders do not eat a good variety of the foods listed in this FAQ. There are a lot of products on the market so the list below should help you decide what is best for your glider.

1. STAT: A high vitamin and calorie liquid used for sick or injured gliders. Helps replace lost vitamins due to stress. It can be obtained from a vet or from the company below:

J&B; Wholesale Supply
1-800-526-0388

2. Nutri-cal: Similar to STAT and recommended for the same uses. This product can be found in some pet stores. Check with your vet before using either STAT or Nutri-cal.

3. Nekton-Lori: A powder mixed with water(1:5, powder to water) or sprinkle on food. This is a complete diet for Lories and contains vitamins, protein, carbohydrates and sugars. It is best to use only with nursing mommy gliders or just weaned babies but can be used sparingly like once a week or alternate with Ledbeatters mix. It can really put weight on a glider so care should be taken not to over do it. The price is astronomical, $50 dollars for about a one pound container but with only occasional use it will last a long time. You can call or write:

Necton U.S.A., 14405 60th St. North, Clearwater Fl. 34620, phone: (813)530-3500, Fax: (813)539-0647

4. Lori Nectar: This is not the same product as Nekton-Lori but is very similar in ingredients and the price is a little better.

5. Glideraide: This is similar to the above two nectars and mixed in the same ratio. It is specially formulated for gliders and contains the necessary vitamins plus protein and cracked bee pollen. All three nectars have the same uses. You can order Glideraide from the companies below:

Cuttlebone Plus 1-800-747-9878
Avico, P.O.Box 305, Fallbrook, California 92088. Phone: 619-731-2242

6. Glider Booster: a multivitamin supplement specifically formulated for gliders. Directions say to sprinkle on food daily but 3 times a week should be sufficient. This product can be ordered in the convenient 2 oz. container or larger if required. Call:

Glider Gultch at (210)347-3197 or Specialty Exotics at (817)322-4915

7. Chapparal vitamins: Similar to Glider Booster. The cost is $16.25 for a 3 lb. tub or $49.50 for 25 lbs. You can order this from:

Chapparal Zoological Vitamins, 6810 Edith N.E., Albuquerque, NM 87113-1139

8. Calcium: Hind-Leg Paralysis (HLP) is thought to be caused by lack of calcium. You can dust their food once a week with a calcium powder such as Rep-Cal. (Not Reptical or Reptical: These are different) Rep-Cal contains powdered oyster shell and Vit. D, the Vit. D helps the body absorb the calcium. If you use Reptical or Reptical, both of these contain other vitamins. If you are already using a good multivitamin, these two products are really not required. The same goes for Linatone, which is sometimes used in Leadbeatters mix. This is an oil-based multi-vitamin and is thought to cause excess odor in gliders but if you are already using another product, you don't need to add this.

9. Vitamin E: This vitamin works in connection with muscle and skin tissue and a lack of it is also thought to be connected to HLP. You can find Vit. E oil in drug stores, health food stores and sometimes a grocery store. Spread a couple of drops over their food once a week.

You should only use one multi-vitamin about three times a week and calcium and Vit. E about once a week. If your gliders have a good appetite and are eating a variety of foods they should be getting enough vitamins. If you add too many, most of it will be wasted and some vitamins can be dangerous in large amounts. As always, consult a vet who specializes in Exotics.

4.3 Dairy products and Chocolate

There has been a lot of discussion about feeding dairy products to Sugar Gliders. Most marsupials are known to be galactose and lactose intolerant and it seems logical to assume Sugar Gliders may be as well. The best course of action would be to refrain from feeding dairy products altogether until there is conclusive evidence. Here is what one vet had to say:

"Galactose and lactose-related cataracts have been documented in young, cow's-milk-fed marsupials in past studies. These cataracts have been attributed to a lack of the enzyme galactokinase, which breaks down those sugars. When those sugars are not broken down, they become converted in the lenses of the young marsupials into a product which clouds the lens --> cataracts. I know of no studies citing dairy-relating cataracts in S.G.s, nor do I know of any studies measuring galactokinase levels in normal S.G. babies. If we knew that, or if we knew whether or not mommy S.G.s made galactose or lactose in their milk, we could say these things with certainty. As for now, knowing the past information, my feeling is that we should be careful and avoid dairy products. Sorry if I've been overly emphatic -- just didn't want to see any blind babies out there....as for lactose levels in yogurt, sorry - can't say."_ _ _ _Matt

Another item to consider is CHOCOLATE. In other animals it has been known to produce toxins during digestion. It is not known if it is harmful or not to Sugar Gliders but it is best not to take any chances. The same thoughts should be applied to canned fruit and other types of candies. They contain way too much refined sugar for such a small animal like a Glider.

Ultimately, when in doubt about the effects of a new or different food, don't feed it to your Sugar Glider and always consult a vet with experience in these animals.

 

5. Health

If your pet suddenly starts acting in ways that are not consistent with his "normal" behavior, it could be a sign of illness. Below is a list of general symptoms to look for. As always, if you suspect your glider is ill, take him to a vet. Gliders, especially, are very small and can quickly become dehydrated or past the point of recovery if they don't get medical attention immediately.

Symptoms Of An Ill Or Hurt Glider

1. Lack of appetite

2. Lethargy

3. Excessive coughing/sneezing

4. Vomiting or diarrhea

5. difficulty breathing

6. Dragging hind legs

7. loss of fur

8. Elevated or lowered temperature

6. Bonding

Bonding is a process that can be different for every animal. You may hear many stories of one glider bonding within a few days and another that took several months. Generally, hand-raised babies will bond the easiest to humans.

7. Traveling with your pet

Not many studies have been done on sugar gliders and traveling. Many people carry them with them where ever they go. I have even called mine the "American Express Glider, I never leave home without him".

Caution is always to be used when traveling. If going on a short distance, it is best to keep an eye on them to make sure that they are not getting car sick. Make sure that you take along familiar things/toys with them. This will make the trip less stressful to them. If you go on an overnight trip, make sure that you plan on housing them overnight. A collapsible cage is great for these occasions since they are easy to set up.

If you go on a long trip, check ahead for vets in your area. Make sure that you have a place to take your animal in the case of an emergency. You do not want to be up at 3am looking for a vet to cure your ill sugar glider. No matter where you go, or how long you are gone, keep a close eye on your sugar glider to make sure that all their needs are met.

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8. Breeding

Days from vaginal Birth:

1 Ear pinnae are directed forward and held against head by epithrichium, skin unpigmented, sex not discernible.

13 Able to tell sex.

16 Tips of ear pinnae are free from head.

19 Ear pinnae are completely free from head but still directed forward.

25 Ear pinnae directed backward.

30 Fine fur detected on muzzle, ears are lightly pigmented. (approximately.)

40 Joey first release grip on teat. (approximately.)

60 Joey begin protruding from pouch.

70 Only the Joey's heads remain pushed into the pouch, Joey frequently left in nest by female and male protects them.

80 Eyes & ears begin to open.

Sexual maturity varies from Sugar Glider to Sugar Glider and it seems to manifest around 7-15 months of age with some waiting up to 2 years. In the wild, the sexual maturity is approximately 12 months with the females maturing first. One sign on the male that he may be ready is the appearance of the typical bald spot on the top of his head followed by a balding spot on the center of their chest or by the display of the penis for long periods of time.

9. Breeders

Breeders Contact List
 

10. Legalities

Unfortunately, this is a new area for the sugar glider. In the United State, there are many laws that one must deal with to own one as a pet or to breed them. When doing research for your area, check with the state laws, county laws, and then the city laws as any of these can be cause for over riding another. The first place to start is with the USDA, then your local Department of Wildlife.

The ISGA is working on getting all of this information in one location for everyone to have access to. If you think you would like to help, please let us know.